Can't link other TV to Amazon Alexa
My Roku account shows (correctly) that I have two TVs. My Roku app only shows one TV in the "Devices in Account". Both TVs appear on the network and I can control them via the app... but I cannot link one of my TVs to Amazon Alexa because it doesn't appear as a Device in Account on the app. Thoughts?
Home Theatre volume control
Hi; I have a Samsung smart TV & have my Roku Ultra's HDMI cable plugged in to a TV HDMI port. I also have a Samsung home theatre system which has an HDMI cable connected to it's HDMI output port. The other cable end is connected to the TV's HDMI-ARC port. have followed instructions for setting both TV & Roku audio settings such as HDMI-ARC & HDMI CEC. I have managed to have the Roku turn on both TV & sound system along with controlling the sound system volume with the Roku remote. However, my Roku hub's LED indicator light randomly flashes without touching the remote. The next time I turn the TV & sound to "ON", I can no longer control volume with my Roku remote. There seems to be an audio issue that the Roku does not like. When resetting audio settings & use my sound system's remote for volume control, the Roku's hub indicator light stays on as it should. Any ideas??
Roku TV no longer discovered by Alexa
About a year ago I purchased a 42” Philips Roku tv from Sams Club. I set it up and paired it with Alexa and it worked but was a novelty as I was on a Direct TV dish. I am now turning Direct TV off in favor of a streaming service but discovered that the TV has lost the ability to pair with Alexa. About 3 months ago ATT came out and upgraded the router. Everything was the same and all appeared to work as it did but I did not check to see if the TV was still paired with Alexa. To date I have removed the TV from the Roku account. Removed the skill from the Alexa app. Reset the TV to out of box. Set the TV back up. Checked that the TV was back in the Roku account. Installed the Roku skill in the Alexa app. Then scanned for new devices but found none. I also went in and forced the router to have a different SSID for the 2.4G and the 5G bands. The TV is using the 2.4G band same as the Echo show. What am I missing?Activation process stuck on sign-on page
After much frustration with bouncing logo screen problems, I finally figured out the factory reset and updated my stick. When I got to the page to enter my email address, I hit the microphone and said "W". It spun "Thinking..." for a long time, then it changed to this below. Now it is just stuck here. Can't navigate anywhere. I even removed the stick and re-inserted. Comes back to this page: Do I have to factory reset all over again? That was a pain. This is a 3800X.
Series-40 Roku TV Game Lag
Like a lot of people, I bought the HiSense Roku TV not knowing it would have unbelievable input lag with game consoles and that the "Game Mode" option came with a graphical output that stuttered. The lag for this TV is, by now, somewhat well-known and there are many topics on the Roku community website and Reddit and elsewhere that talk about it, but few by April 2025 seem to have offered up anything useful towards fixing it. I don't claim to be the first person to help crack this problem, I'm just hoping to help provide frustrated owners more insight and relief than I see anyone else posting. It's the sound. Sound output coming from a game console or PC is what's creating the input lag on the TV when Game Mode is off. It might not be the only thing contributing to it, but as of writing, it appears to be the element most present in all my experiments. I came across this when I hooked up my non-gaming laptop to the HiSense Roku TV through HDMI and did not have any noticeable input lag from the mouse or keyboard when Game Mode is off. Then I hooked up my gaming PC to the TV. I would get a lag-free mouse response UNTIL I started a game; any game. Then it would create nearly half a second in lag that would not go away until I shut the computer off entirely. Again, this is when Game Mode was off. Hours of testing later, I was able to figure up a graphics setting for the PC that the 4Series-40 would let me game without lag and while Game Mode is still off. No sound was coming out and I discovered I had sound turned off. When I went to turn it on, lag would immediately start up and not go away until I shut down and started it up again. Then just this moment, I tested the TV with a docked Nintendo Switch and a cheap PowerA wired controller with headphones hooked up to the controller itself. No noticeable lag while Game Mode is off. I plugged the controller and the headphones in before I put the console in the dock, so the audio never went through the TV. At this early point of testing, I can point towards the 4Series-40 TV taking in sound from an external device triggers the TV to create input lag for consoles and computers. I'm not an expert computer guy or anything, but it also seems the sound input creating lag is more like a software bug than a design or mechanical shortcoming; because once I trigger the sound on from an external source, turning the sound off will not remove the input lag; I have to shut the console or PC all the way down (not sleep mode or restart) to get it to remove lag. And if the TV is capable of lag-free gaming without Game Mode on, which I discovered it is, then the only thing creating this lag is something in the firmware that could be fixed. So the workaround at this early stage is this: Use a wired controller and the controller headphone jack before you turn on the console. Have your computer set to run audio through its integrated audio plugin like Realtek or whatever, then plug it into the TV and turn it on there. Do not run audio from the computer or console through the TV. If this information is helpful, perhaps the Roku team could develop a new firmware patch to fix the software bug or include a new audio option where you could select the TV doesn't take audio data at all? Thank you.
Expired links when trying to activate new Roku Device
Trying to upgrade a couple of my home Rokus; Every attempt, any combination of QR code/manual setup thru the device results in an expired link, even immediately within seconds of receiving email. This is the 2nd day of getting this error. Are there are any tips or tricks to successfully activating a new device at this time, other than creating a new account? These are upgrades for me, rather than replacements for broken/down units but I would hate to be the position of not having working Rokus for these TVs.
