I don't think your TV's vintage is the problem. I'm using a Streaming Stick 4K+ on a 1080p Samsung from 2012 without issues.
Here are a couple of things to try:
- Your Streaming Stick 4K+ has a default "Auto power savings" option that will put your Roku device into a low power standby condition after a 20 minute period of inactivity (i.e. nothing has been streaming and no user interaction has been received, such as when your TV is off). In this state neither its connection to your home network nor its HDMI signal to your TV are active. Thus when you turn your TV on and the set checks what's connected to its HDMI ports, the Roku can't respond, and can resulting in an HDCP error.
Pressing a Roku control key (like the Home button) on your Roku remote (not Power, Volume, or Mute buttons as they act on the TV, not the Roku) should bring the Roku out of standby and back to full operation. Depending on the TV, it may or may not automatically check the HDMI port again. As you've discovered, pulling the power for a few seconds to restart the Roku will restore full operation as well and should always trigger another check of the HDMI port.
If you disable "Settings > System > Power > Auto power savings > After 20 minutes of no interaction" it should prevent your Roku from going into standby in the first place. The power savings are very small and for the hassle it causes most users, I don't think it's worth having this feature activated.
For further details, see this Roku information page: https://support.roku.com/article/6306527767575
- The startup information exchanged between the Roku and TV when an HDMI connection is established should prevent the Roku from attempting to send a 4K signal to your non-4K set. To be doubly sure, set your Roku to the actual resolution of your set instead of the default "Auto detect".
Use Roku menu path Settings > Display type
When you change the Display type to a new setting it runs you through several screens:
- A screen where you can choose from the available display options on that device.
- A screen where it analyzes your choice to be sure your TV supports it, then gives the option of trying that choice if you wish.
- A screen with a countdown timer and two choices:
Yes, screen looks good
No, I will choose a different setting
The "No" option is highlighted by default. To keep the screen resolution you're currently trying, you need to arrow up to the "Yes" option and click on it before the timer runs out.
- I only mention this for completeness for the benefit of others who may be reading this. Since pressing the Home button on your Roku remote brings the Roku back to life, this should not apply to you.
If the Roku is powered from a USB port on the TV that powers down when the set is off, that means the Roku must go through its full power-up sequence before it can operate. If the TV boots up before the Roku is ready to respond to the HDMI check as mentioned above, the TV may not establish an HDMI connection at all, resulting in a "No signal" message on the TV, or it may start the connection but not have all the information it needs in to satisfy the HDCP requirements.
The solution is to power it from your house power using a USB converter so that it is powered up before you turn on the TV.
Roku Community Streaming Expert
I am not a Roku employee, only a user like you. Please, no support questions via private message -- post them publicly to the Community where others may benefit as well.
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Streaming Stick 4K+ 3821 | Streaming Stick+ 3810 | TCL Roku TV 43S245/C107X
