Wi-Fi & connectivity

[fakka]

Have been through the whole 2.5/5ghz deal  as well as the auto channel versus static channel.

I have the same issue as a lot of people. WIFI drops about every other day on at least 1 of my 2 devices.

A reset of the router ALWAYS fixes the issue.
I have no issues with other devices.
I have a 3930X and a 3920x. Neither supports USB ethernet.

IF anyone has any idea - lmk ....... else in the trash they go - and I will just move on with an ethernet amazon cube or apple tv.

thx

[makaiguy]

All I can tell you is I used to have similar problems, but only one or two times a month so not as severely as yours, especially with my Streaming Stick Plus (3810), which was my most advanced model at the time.

I replaced my old discontinued Western Digital router with a new Asus RT-AX3000 to get additional features and was surprised to find that my dropped connections went away.  I have not lost the connection once since then.

I suspect Rokus (or maybe just some Roku models?) are more susceptible to wifi network instability than many other devices.  Or maybe it's just that the Roku is in constant use streaming for hours at a time, unlike many other devices which only use their internet connections in short bursts and may be less likely to encounter any net instability.

[DBDukes]

@fakka 

Note that with this being your first post, we don't have proper background on your issue.

The model numbers (thank you for supplying those; many new people don't, and it's always helpful to have) indicate you have a Roku Express (3930) from 2019 (discontinued in 2021). It only supports 2.4 GHz band, 802.11 b/g/n

The other device is a Roku Premiere (3920) from 2018 (discontinued 2021). It also only supports 2.4 GHz, 802.11 b/g/n

You reference "2.5(sic)/5ghz" so I'm pretty sure you've confirmed your network is broadcasting on 2.4 GHz band. What I'm not sure about is if you confirmed that your 2.4 GHz network is set to b/g/n or if it's set to g/n. Many ISPs who control the wireless router -- particularly Xfinity but others are guilty as well -- will turn of 2.4 GHz (again, you've probably ruled this out) or change the setting from b/g/n to g/n. Check that if you have not. Even if you found they changed it to g/n, and changed it back to b/g/n, confirm they didn't change it again. If they did, tell them to stop. Or get your own router (I did; don't pay Comcast/Xfinity the monthly fee for a router).

You also mentioned "auto channel versus static channel" which I think means you've manually changed the 2.4 GHz band's channel from auto to 1, 6, or 11. If that's not the case, please clarify for me.

If you do replace the devices, keep in mind the new Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K Max is a good one, and it's cheaper than the Cube. However, the Apple TV is a great device as well, though more costly. Then again, if you're going to put that kind of money into it, I would have suggested putting it into a high-end Roku device rather than the entry-level devices you chose. Those were the only two Roku that were 2.4 GHz only at the time of your purchase. Any other device at the time would have had much better wireless. The Ultra has been a good device. The Soundbar and Soundbar Pro have been excellent, and sound good too.

Let us know what else you may have tried, in detail, as you did provide some good information, but more would be helpful.

[Strega]

I haven't reset my Netgear router since I bought it 5 years ago. (Although I never reset the router before that either.) I assume it probably resets in the middle of the night after a firmware update now and then… But I've never noticed.

On the Netgear, I did notice early on that if I ran youtube on a Roku, the traffic meter on the Netgear would report ridiculous numbers, so I can't say it's absolutely bug-free, but none of its bugs drop wi-fi connections or cause other serious issues.  (I haven't noticed that traffic meter issue recently so they may have fixed it.)

You mention "a lot of people".  Did any of them have the same router as you?

I do have one tablet that I have to toggle its Wi-Fi on an off at times, and one of my Laptops has gotten kind of slow about reconnecting to Wi-Fi after booting, so I guess it's not a perfectly implemented standard as of yet. For sure, if you can get an ethernet cable to the location, I think that's the way to go whenever possible.

[fakka]

Hey DB.

Yes confirmed about the router being set to b/g/n and I was a victim of them setting it to g/n - but that was 1 time.

Broadcasting in 2.4GHZ and wifi is seen ..... it just cant connect.

We started off in autochannel as per Xfinity recommendations ....... then per Roku fourm we changed it to static channel. Didnt seem to make much difference.

What IM really looking for is 

a) A solution to this - it ONLY happens to roku devices as per many other threads on this issue.

b) If A isnt possible - then roku to allow me to upgrade to a newer unit at full cost and a refund on my other unit at full cost.  A %10 discount doesn't cut the headaches here.

Understand these are the lower end devices of roku - but they shouldn't have sold them with these issues - and if they dont address these issues satisfactorily - then its death by 1000 cuts so to speak. Not only will I not buy a new roku - I would never buy one again. Once burned etc.

</rant>.

[DBDukes]

@fakka 

I've never used those particular devices. The only low-end device I ever used was the similar 3921 Premiere+, which is also 2.4 GHz only. It's in a spare room, but was used last night in fact, for about four hours. It's never had an issue. This is my only long-term experience with a 2.4 GHz only Roku since 2013. It's been flawless, but I have a really really really good network.

I strongly suspect the true issue is your network router. However, if a different brand works with your current network setup, then that may be the way to go. Just keep in mind you'd be comparing a higher end other brand to a lower end Roku.

I can say that the performance on older Amazon Fire TV devices, from the same year as those Roku devices, does not hold up, and I've never had network issues. It's the inferior device. But, as I said earlier, the Fire TV Stick 4K Max has been a good device compared to the older Fire TV devices, but as it's still relatively new, I don't know how it holds up in the long run.

Apple TV devices have been rock solid. I've never used an Nvidia Shield, but other speak highly of them. For $200, they better be good. The Chromecast with Google TV is an okay device, but is underpowered.

I've never had the issues with the 3810 Streaming Stick+ that @makaiguy reported, but I started using my own higher quality modem and router many years before it was released.

As for your discount, you'd have to get someone from Roku to talk with. However, let's do some math.

The Roku Ultra is $99 full price.

You paid $24 for the Express and $29 for the Premiere, I suspect. Maybe $29 and $34.

So you're saying you'd swap full price for full price. Get back $29 for the low end device and pay $99 for an Ultra. Effectively paying $70 for the Ultra.

Go to Walmart right now and buy a Roku Ultra for $69, the current sale price [link].

Or, as you said, abandon Roku. It's not what I would do, but your situation is yours, not mine. You've got to make the best decision for you.

[fakka]

DB

do you know if all remotes work across roku devices ?

eg a  Express  work with an ultra ?

[DBDukes]

@fakka 

They will.

The only issue would be the IR remotes (Express) will not control a Stick.

All Roku devices other than Sticks will work with IR remotes (Roku Simple Remote, 3rd party universal).

All recent Roku devices with work with the Roku WiFi Direct remotes (Voice Remote, Voice Remote Pro, etc).