Discussions

[malrats]

I’m thinking of getting one to attempt to correct audio lag and I’m sick of using sound bars that don’t work.

If I wanted to entirely bypass the Roku TV’s (poor) handling of processing audio, would an AVR do that? If so, what would be the process of connecting it? I generally prefer to use optical for everything that I can. I don’t like HDMI ARC.

Also, would the Roku TV’s apps like Netflix and such still work and have sound despite being connected to a receiver and external speakers?

I appreciate any help. I have a +200ms audio delay and it’s driving me nuts. I’d love to get this solved.

[scottypie1234]

Works fine for me.

[malrats]

"scottypie1234" wrote:
Works fine for me.

Including the Roku channels? What kind of setup do you have?

[Heyitsrick]

What is your current setup where you are getting the 200ms lag? Are you connecting from the TV to some outboard speakers? You're not saying the TV speakers, themselves, are audio-delayed, are you?

If your TV is the only audio source (whether it's the built-in Roku or whatever else you're watching on it), you'll probably have to connect via HDMI-ARC. Otherwise, the TV would need an HDMI-OUT (doubtful) to connect to the AVR.

Also note that you're not going to get Dolby Digital PLUS (DD+) over optical. Optical just doesn't have the bandwidth for DD+ Some TVs will transcode DD+ to standard DD over optical out, but I wouldn't count on it.  DD+ is the format used by Netflix, Amazon and others. You'd be stuck with regular stereo going the optical route from the TV to an AVR. 

What is your issue with HDMI-ARC? I use it without any issues at all on my setup. I've got a Roku Premiere+, Apple TV, Chromecast, BluRay and Cable Box all connected via HDMI to my AVR. Then, I use the HDMI-ARC port on the AVR to connect to the HDMI-ARC jack on the TV. Works perfectly.  The audio is coming from the devices, themselves (not the TV), but I do get my TV audio this way, as well, if I use the TV's smart apps like Netflix or Youtube or whatever other app is built in that I want to listen to on the AVR. In your case, the "device" is your TV.  

[apodtele]

"malrats" wrote:
I generally prefer to use optical for everything that I can. I don’t like HDMI ARC.

FYI, HDMI ARC has better bandwidth and supports CEC. Use it. I have Yamaha RX-V. It works great except DD+. It turns on and off together with Tv. I am very happy.

[atc98092]

Actually DD+ will pass via optical, but many devices don't support it. I can't say if any Roku TV will output DD+ over optical, as I don't have either of mine connected to an external device. 

[twiceover]

I use mine with Optical.  The main reason I do this is because of my setup.  All my game consoles/bluray are connected to my AV receiver.  ARC disables the TV speakers when the AVR is on.  So if I want to play the PS4 at night, the sound has to come out of my 5.1 system.  Using optical I can have the audio come out of both and just turn the AVR down.

I might change everything around after the holiday and try ARC again though.  My AVR does still pass the audio and video through the selected component even when off so hopefully selecting the right component and then turning the AVR off will pass the audio back to the TV and enable the speakers.

[blade_005]

"twiceover" wrote:
I might change everything around after the holiday and try ARC again though.  My AVR does still pass the audio and video through the selected component even when off so hopefully selecting the right component and then turning the AVR off will pass the audio back to the TV and enable the speakers.

If your AVR can still pass Video when OFF then that should work for your night time configuration. I don't have an AVR, but do have my 5.1 soundbar connected via ARC-HDMI and I can turn the soundbar off and audio will default to the TV Speakers if you have it enabled in OS.

[RokuDale]

Actually it is SAC that disables the internal speakers when connected. ARC does not. If you turn off SAC, leaving ARC on, the internal speakers should come back on.

[twiceover]

SAC??